The Ásbyrgi canyon in the north of Iceland is one of the most impressive natural rock formations in the country. The shelter of the gods, as it is also known in local folklore, has captivated people for thousands of years. In this post I’d like to introduce you to the canyon and the surrounding region.
Here we go…
Ásbyrgi Canyon: Formation and History
The canyon was presumably formed by a glacial outburst shortly after the last ice age. 10,000 years ago, the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum carried so much water that it carved the horseshoe shape into the rock. The river is fed by Vatnajökull and flows over the waterfalls Selfoss, Dettifoss and Hafragilsfoss in the north of the country into the Greenland Sea. Just how powerful the river is even at normal water levels is proven by the fact that Dettifoss is Europe’s most powerful waterfall.
The volcano Bárðarbunga was presumably involved in the whole affair — some of you might still remember it from recent years: it last erupted in 2014 in a large fissure eruption, and alongside a new lava field, new hot springs also formed in its surroundings.
But back to Ásbyrgi: it is assumed that after the last ice age, this very volcano Bárðarbunga erupted, producing enormous masses of meltwater that followed the course of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum. At some point these masses must have grown so large that they scoured out cracks and small gorges to such an extent that even huge boulders broke loose. Over time, the horseshoe shape we know today was formed.
Words can hardly describe the forces that must have been at work here, but if you have ever been to the glacial lagoon Jökulsárlón in the south, you can perhaps picture it like this: if you took all the water of the glacier tongue together with the lake that is over 200m deep, it would still be only a small fraction of the water masses presumed to have been involved in that event back then.
Over the millennia, various events of this kind followed and shaped the rocks and the valley. About 2,000 years ago the river changed its course. The valley dried out and trees began to grow here. In the middle of the canyon there is still a large rock, Eyjan, which divides the canyon.
Aside from the scientific research, the Icelanders have their very own theory about how the canyon was formed: the Norse god Odin was hunting frost giants on his eight-legged horse, and the canyon is simply a hoofprint of that horse.
Hiking in Ásbyrgi Canyon
Right at the parking lot, at the beginning of road 861, you’ll find the Ásbyrgi visitor center next to a gas station. A few meters further on, on the right-hand side, is the campsite where you can also park your car.
From here there is a trail that leads up onto Eyjan, the rock that separates the two sides of the canyon in the middle. To reach the saddle of the rock, you have to walk a short stretch back towards road 85 and then climb just under 100 meters of elevation. Even inexperienced hikers can manage this comfortably. The whole trail is only about 2km and you can do the entire thing in under an hour. In bad weather you should, as always when hiking in Iceland, wear proper clothing and above all weatherproof hiking boots.
From up there you get a great sense of the canyon’s dimensions, and once you realize that the entire canyon was once filled with water, it quickly becomes clear what forces were at work here. Absolutely impressive!
From the campsite you can also continue further south, either in addition to or as an alternative to the hike up Eyjan. You can walk or drive this route as you like and park just before the apex of the canyon. Since the route is relatively long on foot, I recommend driving up and taking more time to enjoy the nature there instead.
Here you’ll find a good description of the hike
You’re probably also wondering: can I get to the top? Directly opposite the campsite there is a trail that leads up to the rim of the canyon. I haven’t been there myself, so I can only refer you to this track on GPSies. Next time I’m in the area, I will definitely try that trail!
Waterfalls near Ásbyrgi
Apart from the fact that the canyon’s escarpment was presumably once a gigantic, truly oversized waterfall, there are no falling rivers here today. But not far from Ásbyrgi you’ll find no fewer than three large and wonderfully beautiful waterfalls.
First and foremost the waterfall Dettifoss. It is the most powerful waterfall in all of Europe. At this waterfall, too, you can make out a canyon, and here as well the walls rise more than a hundred meters in places. The river regularly carries over 200 cubic meters of water per second here and would produce over 80 megawatts of energy: that could presumably cover the entire electricity consumption of the north and more. Despite all these facts, what impresses most is the sheer power the place radiates once you’re actually there.
A few hundred meters north of Dettifoss you’ll find the waterfall Hafragilsfoss. By this point the water has already lost quite a bit of its force, and along the course of the river you can clearly see how much sediment is in the water. A diver here wouldn’t be able to see their hand in front of their face. Really. A few hundred meters south of Dettifoss, you’ll then also find the waterfall Selfoss. Not to be confused with the town on the south coast of Iceland!
Camping at Ásbyrgi Canyon in Iceland
Vatnajökull National Park runs a campsite right at the canyon, which is probably one of the most beautiful in the country. When I was traveling with a campervan in Iceland in April 2018, I was really annoyed with myself for not having stayed the night here.
The campsite has toilets, hot water and showers. One night costs 15€ for the first and just under 13€ for each following night. There are also washing machines, electricity and WiFi. But above all, a breathtaking atmosphere!
Here you can find more info about the campsite.
Hotels at Ásbyrgi Canyon in Iceland
By the way, for this research I used the Iceland app: it lets you find hotels in Iceland based on their location.
Back then I decided to stay at the Storu Laugar guesthouse, which is only about an hour away from here.
The guesthouses Nordic Natura were also recommended to me: the small cabins sit right on the rim of the canyon and are therefore a perfect base for hikes from here!
Conclusion: Ásbyrgi Canyon in Iceland
I can recommend to anyone traveling in the north to visit the Ásbyrgi canyon and also the neighboring sights, which include some of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland! If you bring a good amount of time, you can plan a hike; if you’re short on time, you don’t need to spend much more than 45 minutes here and will still get a great first impression.
From here you can conveniently continue either west towards Husavík or further east. Heading east, however, the distances get a bit longer and you should allow a little more time.
Have fun in Iceland!
Photos: Cover
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