What do you do in Iceland on a slightly overcast, freezing-cold Sunday to pass the time? Easy — you climb into the mountains and lie down in a river that is fed mainly by glacial meltwater…
…at least when boiling-hot water from geothermal springs joins in and heats the river up to a pleasant 39°C!
Hiking in Reykjadalur
The Reykjadalur valley is only about an hour’s drive from the capital Reykjavík and lies some 40 km to the southeast, right by the Ring Road in Iceland. The small town of Hveragerði is your first port of call. From the town center you drive about 2 km north until you hit a gravel road, at the end of which you’ll find the Dalakaffi. Before and especially after the hike, this is the place to treat yourself to a coffee and a slice of cake.
This is where the part of the day begins in which the car sits still and waits for you. The hiking trail is just under 4 km long and climbs quite steeply in places — I’d estimate you cover a good 200 meters in elevation. The hike took us a little over an hour, from the café to the upper end of the trail. We had very strong wind (>20 m/s) and it was cold (-5°C) though, so I assume the hike takes more like 45-60 minutes in better weather conditions.
Along the way you pass several large hot pots in which boiling water bubbles away, giving off the pungent sulfur smell so typical of Iceland. By the way, you’d better not jump into the water just yet — the water here is boiling hot and highly caustic. The gray mud pots in particular pack a punch: what gives the water its gray color is dissolved rock.
The big tour operators don’t really serve the valley at the moment, though that should change in the coming 2015 season. Then you’ll surely be able to get there even without a rental car.
The geothermal hot river in Reykjadalur: Reykjadalsá
After about 2.5 km you reach the highest point of the hike — there are still a few ups and downs ahead, but the toughest part of the climb is behind you. This is also where the breathtaking view to the south reveals itself for the first time, with the coast and the ocean in sight. Waterfalls big and small tumble down the rock faces, giving each other an extra push.
After about 3 km you reach the first turquoise-blue hot pots, and more and more smoke and steam gather in the air. It’s simmering on every corner, and everywhere you can hear boiling water bubbling. On my first visit, the first wooden structures for the tourist crowds to come are being built up here, and the dirt paths are being reinforced with metal mesh and additional stones.
If you like, you can start looking for a nice spot here. In the riverbed there are about 10-20 dammed-up natural pools where 2-3 people can sit together and enjoy the warm water. You should be a little careful here, though: the hot water flows in from several directions at times and often reaches 80-90°C before it enters the river. Only once it mixes with the ice-cold water of the stream does it come down to the rather pleasant 40°C or so. In some spots this happens irregularly, so every now and then you’re in for a very hot experience. On top of that, hot gas occasionally escapes from the ground, so you should be ready to lift your behind at any moment.
Verdict
The Reykjadalur valley is an ideal day trip by car in Iceland and can be combined with a drive along the south coast (roads 38, 427). If you feel like it, you can follow the Ring Road further east afterwards and check out the waterfalls in the south of Iceland. Either way, I’d plan about 4 hours for Reykjadalur. Good hiking boots are recommended for the hike, along with something to drink and maybe a small snack. Don’t forget your swimwear — have fun!
No Comments Yet