After leaving the Wilderness Center on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park, my journey continues into Iceland’s north-east. It hardly gets more remote than this region.
The story of Borgarfjörður Eystri
The small village of Borgarfjörður Eystri is home to a little over 100 people and a bit of blue blood: none other than the queen of the elves is said to live here in the Álfaborg. A large puffin colony is located close by.
The history of this little place is quickly told, and that is exactly what makes it special: it is unspecial. Perfectly ordinary, just how you would picture a small, forsaken village in the middle of nowhere in Iceland. There are no attractions, there is not even a supermarket: if you don’t bring your own food, you will go to bed with a rumbling stomach.
The village has a small bank branch but no ATM. There are two restaurants, both of which were closed when I was there.
What is there to see?
Still, you can have a good time in Borgarfjörður Eystri if you embrace the seclusion and make the most of it. Many people tell me they want to get to know the real Iceland, away from the bigger towns and villages and off the tourist trails: et voilà!
We spent two nights here at the Blabjorg Guesthouse, which is fairly new and furnished in a modern style. More than 40 rooms are available, plus a sauna and a jacuzzi with an ocean view. A generous breakfast — and dinner during the high season — can be enjoyed right in the house.
One highlight for me was the drive into the fjord: the route is picturesquely beautiful and leads past old farms, along the coast, past a beach and up over a mountain pass before heading back down into the fjord. You can certainly cover the distance in roughly 45 minutes; I easily took four hours. Near the coast you will also find an abandoned farm, or rather a barn, right by the roadside. Everywhere, picturesque landscapes invite you to stop and take pictures. If you feel the same way, please remember not to stop in the middle of the road but only where you won’t obstruct the flowing traffic: a car can come along at any time.
Once we had arrived, I used the very first evening to head to the harbour for a look at the newly arriving puffins: at the beginning of April the birds migrate westwards, which means this is the first place they arrive before moving on. In the afternoon they sit out on the open sea and fly, one by one, to the small island in the harbour to look for their partner and a nesting spot. More and more of them then stay on the island, and towards the evening it is completely packed with the clumsy little birds. Hundreds, if not thousands of puffins gather here, and they are so trusting that they often sit just a few centimetres away from you.
On every evening of our stay we were lucky enough to also see the Northern Lights. On one evening they were so strong that not only green but also blue and red ribbons of colour could be seen dancing across the sky. That doesn’t necessarily happen often, so you probably shouldn’t plan your trip around it alone. Still, the chances of catching the Northern Lights here are relatively high, because the coasts are often free of clouds and the light pollution of the night sky is extremely low here.
How do I get to Borgarfjörður Eystri?
You reach Borgarfjörður Eystri by leaving the Ring Road at Egilsstaðir heading north and taking road number 93 and then 94. Road 94 is a gravel road, but it is perfectly manageable even for small vehicles. With snow I would be rather careful, so in winter I would want to drive a suitable rental car in Iceland.
Verdict: Blabjorg Guesthouse in Borgarfjörður Eystri
For me, Borgarfjörður Eystri is one of those hidden gems everyone is always searching for: but it comes without a wow effect and without any big fanfare. With bad weather, without puffins and without Northern Lights, this article might never have been written — or it would have been a real struggle. Or maybe it would simply have turned out completely different. What I am trying to say is: if you don’t take a chance in Iceland, you are guaranteed not to find a new favourite place, or even one that genuinely excites you. After my visit, several Icelanders named Borgarfjörður Eystri as one of their favourite places — yet had I asked them before the trip, they probably wouldn’t have mentioned it, precisely because it is so unassuming. The Blabjorg Guesthouse certainly played a big part in making us feel at home, because with a hot pot, a sauna and a great breakfast it delivered noticeably more than I had expected in such a remote place.
Advertisement: This post was created in cooperation with HeyIceland; I was granted special conditions on the reservation for my stay. My opinion remains unaffected by this.
No Comments Yet